Turning in a Polished Performance

It's no secret that delivering a finished repair job that is sparkling and lustrous is rewarding to the repair shop. That's why the technician who polishes the vehicle has such an important job. But, does he or she really understand buffing and polishing? For those who don't, most paint manufacturers and suppliers offer tips on buffing and polishing that may benefit the technician. It can be useful advice, particularly because the products used in the detailing side of the business are being improved just as quickly as the paints on which these products are designed to be used.

One good example is the ongoing discussion in the buffing and polishing market over the use of wool vs. foam buffing pads. Some technicians swear by the wool pads. According to one pad manufacturer, some suppliers even offer a cleaning service for their used buffing pads and wool bonnets to save the repairer the expense of replacing them. Wool pads generally do a good job in the hands of an experienced technician, and they certainly should be part of your detailing tool kit, but some of the newer foam pad designs offer advantages that shouldn't be ignored.

In a survey conducted by one pad manufacturer, technicians who preferred wool bonnets or pads were given foam pads, and asked to test and compare the two types. At the conclusion of the test, several technicians reported that they preferred the buffing quality of foam. Also, the use of foam pads eliminates the fuzzy particles shed by wool bonnets, which can be an annoyance to buffing technicians and everyone around them.

Some of the foam pads currently being manufactured are of a reticulating design, which minimizes or eliminates the splattering of the compound or buffing material, and keeps more of the substance on the pad. Unlike conventional pads, polishes and glazing compounds are applied directly to the surface of the reticulating pad. As the pad rotates during the buffing process, polishes and compounds migrate toward the center of the pad. According to one manufacturer, this results in virtually no splatter, and more of the product is applied to the work surface.

Some technicians insist that the older style foam pads will not remove certain wet- or dry-sand scratches from the panel, and claim they would have to switch back to wool in order to finish the job. However, some of the newer foam pad technology eliminates this problem by mimicking wool bonnet performance more closely.

There are many pad types and designs on the market, such as concave, convex and waffle. Each is fashioned to keep the buffing material on the pad and the applied panel, rather than projected into the air. The concave or variable contact type of pad is designed to maintain a very large "polish pocket" on the pad to reduce or eliminate splattering.

One concern in product design is the speed at which the technician can buff the vehicle. Some compound material companies design and manufacture their products for speed. In a production shop, for example, some pad products are designed specifically to help the technician buff the vehicle faster, possibly with only one or two passes of the buffing machine.

Polishing Techniques

To a great extent, the quality of the finished polishing job depends on the skill of the technican. It's as much a matter of technique as having the proper products to do the job. There are, however, several typical imperfections that can be removed with the proper polishing technique. Here are some tips on dealing with paint runs, sags and large imperfections; removing dirt nibs from the finish; and general polishing.

* Be sure the finish is completely dry according to the recommendations in the product data sheet. Premature polishing will damage the finish.

* Do not use very abrasive compounds designed for lacquer finishes. Use polishes designed for urethane finishes.

* Do not use coarse grit sandpapers. Most imperfections can be removed using 1000 grit or finer.

* Machine polisher speed should be set at 1200-1700 rpm.

* Always check paint product data sheets for recommendations on the best pad type for the material being polished.

* When polishing a blend edge, take extra care. Always polish away from the blend edge, never directly into the edge. Whenever possible, the blend edge should be hand-glazed rather than machine polished.

* When hand-glazing the finish, use a soft, clean cloth for application and removal of the glaze.

Removing Imperfections

Prior to sanding or polishing any vehicle, check the appropriate manufacturer's product data sheet for recommended dry times of the polishing product. Thoroughly clean the area to be worked to remove any dirt or compound.

To remove minor surface imperfections such as dirt nibs, try the following techniques:

* Sand out the imperfections with 1500 grit (or finer) wet sandpaper. Be sure to block sand the surface to remove the imperfections. It may be convenient and faster to just spot sand the imperfections rather than the entire panel.

* Lightly polish out the sand scratches using an appropriate liquid polish and a machine polisher. Note: Be careful not to put excessive pressure on the machine polisher. It is recommended that the machine polisher (set at 1200-1700 rpm) be used with a foam pad or wool polishing pad or bonnet. If a wool pad or bonnet is used, it should be followed by a foam pad and a non-abrasive glaze.

To remove larger surface imperfections such as paint runs and sags:

* Sand the imperfection with 1000-1200 grit wet sandpaper. Be sure to use a sanding block. Sand the panel until the imperfection is barely visible. Follow with a 1500 grit or finer wet sandpaper to remove the rest of the imperfection.

* Use a machine polisher (set at 1200-1700 rpm) with a clean wool pad or bonnet along with a liquid polish compound solution to remove the sanding scratches.

* This should be followed by a foam polishing pad, used in conjunction with a liquid polish that is designed to remove light sanding scratches and/or machine swirl marks.

* Finish with a hand or machine glaze.

The Final Repair

In buffing and polishing, doing a job the fastest, easiest way may not be the most cost-efficient way. Remember, buffing and polishing is the final step that completes the repair. One mistake here, and everyone suffers a setback.

As long as the technician follows the manufacturer's recommended procedure list and product data sheets, your shop's paint repairs should be as fine as the grit on your sandpaper ... and that's something your customers are sure to appreciate.